Cozy Stitchery
Pattern sizes follow body measurements, not the size on your clothing tags
Sewing patterns are sized by body measurements, and the major pattern companies' sizes run noticeably smaller than ready-to-wear sizes. Measure the body, choose the size from the envelope chart, then compare the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern to see how much ease the design adds. Most fit problems are solved on paper before the fabric is cut.
Measure over well-fitting undergarments, tape snug but not tight and level all the way around. Take each measurement twice.
| Measurement | How to take it | First | Second | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full bust or chest | Fullest part, tape level across the back | |||
| High bust | Under the arms, above the bust | |||
| Waist | Natural waist, where the body bends sideways | |||
| Hip | Fullest part of the seat | |||
| Back waist length | Prominent neck bone to natural waist | |||
| Shoulder | Neck base to shoulder point | |||
| Arm length | Shoulder point over a bent elbow to wrist bone | |||
| Upper arm | Fullest part of the bicep | |||
| Neck | Base of the neck | |||
| Inseam | Crotch to desired hem, on the inside leg | |||
| Crotch depth or rise | Seated, waist to chair surface at the side | |||
| Height | Without shoes |
| Garment | Choose by | Example | Your size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tops, dresses, jackets | Full bust, or high bust if full bust minus high bust is more than 2 in, then a full bust adjustment | Bust 36 in: size 14 on a typical Big 4 misses chart | |
| Skirts and pants | Hip, then adjust the waist | Hip 39 in: between 14 (38 in) and 16 (40 in) | |
| Between sizes | Grade between sizes across the waist and hip | Size 14 at bust, blend to 16 at hip |
Major pattern companies commonly draft for a B cup; many independent designers draft for a C cup or offer cup options. Check the pattern instructions, and use the size chart printed with the pattern you are sewing rather than a memory of a previous one.
Ease is the finished garment measurement minus the body measurement. Bust ease for dresses, blouses and tops, as used on major pattern company ease charts:
| Fit | Bust ease | Your garment |
|---|---|---|
| Close-fitting | 0 to 2 7/8 in | |
| Fitted | 3 to 4 in | |
| Semi-fitted | 4 1/8 to 5 in | |
| Loose-fitting | 5 1/8 to 8 in | |
| Very loose-fitting | Over 8 in |
Worked example: a pattern printing a finished bust of 38 1/2 in, sewn for a 36 in bust, has 2 1/2 in of ease, which is close-fitting. Jackets and coats use larger ease ranges, and knits designed for stretch can have zero or negative ease.
| Location | Body | Pattern finished | Ease | Wanted ease | Adjust by |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | |||||
| Waist | |||||
| Hip | |||||
| Upper arm | |||||
| Back length | |||||
| Garment length |
| Pattern | Adjustment | Amount | Where on the pattern | Muslin result | Keep for next time? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lengthen or shorten bodice | Lengthen or shorten line | ||||
| Full bust adjustment | |||||
| Swayback | |||||
| Narrow or broad shoulder | |||||
| Full upper arm | |||||
| Waist or hip grading | |||||
| Pant length or rise | |||||
Check the seam allowance before adjusting: major pattern companies commonly use 5/8 in, and many independent patterns use 3/8 or 1/2 in. Sew a muslin or toile in inexpensive fabric of similar weight before cutting the real fabric.
Fitting and finishing garments
An adjustable dress form makes fitting alone possible, and a serger gives knit and woven seams a professional inside finish.
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