Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles: What They Are For and Which Size to Use
Embroidery needles have a light ball point with wide eye and groove, which suits rayon and polyester embroidery thread, machine embroidery. Avoid them on general construction sewing. Schmetz lists 2 sizes, 75/11 and 90/14, marked with a red band. Change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing.
Embroidery needles are sewing machine needles with a light ball point with wide eye and groove, made for rayon and polyester embroidery thread. Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap. The sewing machine needle size chart shows how the sizes on the package line up with fabrics.
| Point | Light ball point with wide eye and groove |
|---|---|
| Best for | Rayon and polyester embroidery thread, Machine embroidery |
| Avoid for | General construction sewing |
| Sizes | 75/11, 90/14 |
| Schmetz color band | Red |
The table above sums the type up: a light ball point with wide eye and groove made for rayon and polyester embroidery thread, in 2 sizes. Thread and needle are chosen together, so this size runs best with 40 wt thread or 60 wt.
Which size embroidery needle should you use?
Embroidery needles come in 2 sizes, from 75/11 for the lightest fabrics up to 90/14; the table below pairs each size with its fabrics and thread.
How do needle types compare?
All 14 household needle types sit in the table below, with Embroidery highlighted. The closest alternative is the metallic needle, which is the one to reach for when this point is not right for the fabric.
| Type | Point | Color band |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | None |
When in doubt, test
Sew a few inches on a scrap of the same fabric, folded to the same thickness. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type; shredded thread usually means the eye is too small.
Needles are the cheapest fix in sewing: a pack of 5 costs less than a yard of fabric and lasts 6 to 8 hours of stitching each. Buy them by fabric rather than in bulk in one size, and when the needle is right but the seam still fights you, the machine is the next variable, which is what our best machine embroidery thread roundup digs into.
Needles and machines
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
Under $25Keep a pack of heavier needles on hand for hems, denim and bag projects.
Check price
Brother CS7000X Computerized Sewing and Quilting Machine
Under $500A beginner-friendly computerized machine that takes standard household needles.
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Juki HZL-G120 Computerized Sewing Machine
Under $1,000A box-feed garment machine that feeds light and stretchy fabrics evenly.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What are embroidery needles used for?
Embroidery needles have a light ball point with wide eye and groove and are best for rayon and polyester embroidery thread, machine embroidery. Choose the needle type by fabric first, then the size by fabric weight and thread thickness.
What sizes do embroidery needles come in?
Schmetz lists embroidery needles in 75/11, 90/14. Use the smaller sizes for lighter fabrics and finer thread, and the larger sizes for heavier fabrics and thicker thread.
When should you not use embroidery needles?
Avoid embroidery needles for general construction sewing. Using the wrong point can cause skipped stitches, runs in knits or damage to the fabric, so match the needle to the fabric before you start.
What color band are embroidery needles?
Schmetz marks embroidery needles with a red band on the shank, above a second band showing the size. The color code helps you pick the right needle out of the pincushion, but other brands use different or no color codes.
Why is my sewing machine skipping stitches?
Skipped stitches almost always mean the wrong needle or a worn one. A universal point can skip on knits where a ball point would not, and a bent or dull needle skips long before it looks damaged, so change it every 6 to 8 hours of sewing. Rethread top and bobbin with the presser foot up, and check the needle is pushed all the way up and facing the right way, as the sewing machine maintenance guide sets out.
What size sewing machine needle should I use for quilting cotton?
Use an 80/12 for piecing quilting cotton with 50 wt thread, and step up to a 90/14 once you are quilting through top, batting and backing. A sharp point, microtex or quilting, keeps the seam accurate on tightly woven cotton. The 80/12 needle page in this section covers the fabrics and threads it handles: an 80/12 needle.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with each new project, and right away after hitting a pin. Signs of a dull or bent needle include skipped stitches, a popping sound, snags and puckered seams.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
