Universal Sewing Machine Needles: What They Are For and Which Size to Use
Universal needles have a slightly rounded point, which suits general sewing on wovens and many knits. Avoid them on fine knits that run and dense microfibers. Schmetz lists 9 sizes from 60/8 to 120/19. Change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing.
Universal needles are sewing machine needles with a slightly rounded point, made for general sewing on wovens and many knits. Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap. The sewing machine needle size chart shows how the sizes on the package line up with fabrics.
| Point | Slightly rounded point |
|---|---|
| Best for | General sewing on wovens and many knits |
| Avoid for | Fine knits that run, Dense microfibers, Heavy denim |
| Sizes | 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18, 120/19 |
| Schmetz color band | None |
| Notes | Size band only, no type band. |
The table above sums the type up: a slightly rounded point made for general sewing on wovens and many knits, in 9 sizes. Thread and needle are chosen together, so this size runs best with 50 wt thread or 40 wt.
Which size universal needle should you use?
Universal needles come in 9 sizes, from 60/8 for the lightest fabrics up to 120/19; the table below pairs each size with its fabrics and thread.
| Size | Fabrics | Thread weights |
|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Silk chiffon, Organza, Batiste, Fine lawn | 80 to 100 wt |
| 65/9 | Silk, Fine and highly elastic knits, Lingerie fabrics | 60 to 100 wt |
| 70/10 | Lawn, Voile, Silk, Lightweight knits | 60 to 80 wt |
| 75/11 | Lightweight to medium knits, Quilting cotton piecing, Machine embroidery | 50 to 60 wt; 40 wt embroidery thread on an Embroidery 75/11 |
| 80/12 | Quilting cotton, Shirting, Poplin, Linen (light to medium) | 40 to 50 wt |
| 90/14 | Light to medium denim, Twill, Corduroy, Fleece | 28 to 40 wt; heavier threads on a Topstitch needle |
| 100/16 | Heavy denim, Canvas, Upholstery, Leather | 12 to 30 wt (use a Topstitch needle for 12 wt) |
| 110/18 | Heavy canvas, Upholstery, Heavy denim, Leather | Heavy and topstitching threads |
| 120/19 | Very heavy canvas, Upholstery, Vinyl | Heavy thread |
How do needle types compare?
All 14 household needle types sit in the table below, with Universal highlighted. The closest alternative is the microtex (sharp) needle, which is the one to reach for when this point is not right for the fabric.
| Type | Point | Color band |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | None |
When in doubt, test
Sew a few inches on a scrap of the same fabric, folded to the same thickness. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type; shredded thread usually means the eye is too small.
Needles are the cheapest fix in sewing: a pack of 5 costs less than a yard of fabric and lasts 6 to 8 hours of stitching each. Buy them by fabric rather than in bulk in one size, and when the needle is right but the seam still fights you, the machine is the next variable, which is what our best sewing machines for beginners roundup digs into.
Needles and machines
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
Under $25Keep a pack of heavier needles on hand for hems, denim and bag projects.
Check price
Brother CS7000X Computerized Sewing and Quilting Machine
Under $500A beginner-friendly computerized machine that takes standard household needles.
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Juki HZL-G120 Computerized Sewing Machine
Under $1,000A box-feed garment machine that feeds light and stretchy fabrics evenly.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What are universal needles used for?
Universal needles have a slightly rounded point and are best for general sewing on wovens and many knits. Size band only, no type band. Choose the needle type by fabric first, then the size by fabric weight and thread thickness.
What sizes do universal needles come in?
Schmetz lists universal needles in 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18, 120/19. Use the smaller sizes for lighter fabrics and finer thread, and the larger sizes for heavier fabrics and thicker thread.
When should you not use universal needles?
Avoid universal needles for fine knits that run, dense microfibers, heavy denim. Using the wrong point can cause skipped stitches, runs in knits or damage to the fabric, so match the needle to the fabric before you start.
What color band are universal needles?
Schmetz does not use a separate type band for universal needles, so read the package label. Keep needles in their case once opened so you always know the type and size.
Why is my sewing machine skipping stitches?
Skipped stitches almost always mean the wrong needle or a worn one. A universal point can skip on knits where a ball point would not, and a bent or dull needle skips long before it looks damaged, so change it every 6 to 8 hours of sewing. Rethread top and bobbin with the presser foot up, and check the needle is pushed all the way up and facing the right way, as the sewing machine maintenance guide sets out.
What size sewing machine needle should I use for quilting cotton?
Use an 80/12 for piecing quilting cotton with 50 wt thread, and step up to a 90/14 once you are quilting through top, batting and backing. A sharp point, microtex or quilting, keeps the seam accurate on tightly woven cotton. The 80/12 needle page in this section covers the fabrics and threads it handles: an 80/12 needle.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with each new project, and right away after hitting a pin. Signs of a dull or bent needle include skipped stitches, a popping sound, snags and puckered seams.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
