Hemstitch (Wing) Sewing Machine Needles: What They Are For and Which Size to Use
Hemstitch (Wing) needles have a flared wings beside the blade that open holes. They are best for heirloom hemstitching, loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste, and not for knits, synthetics that close the holes. Common sizes run from 100/16 to 120/19.
Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap.
| Point | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes |
|---|---|
| Best for | Heirloom hemstitching, Loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste |
| Avoid for | Knits, Synthetics that close the holes |
| Sizes | 100/16, 120/19 |
| Schmetz color band | None |
| Notes | Size band only per Schmetz. |
Which size hemstitch (wing) needle should you use?
How do needle types compare?
| Type | Point | Color band |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | None |
When in doubt, test
Sew a few inches on a scrap of the same fabric, folded to the same thickness. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type; shredded thread usually means the eye is too small.
Needles and machines
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$8.99Titanium-coated Schmetz jeans needles in 100/16 for denim, canvas and thick layers.
Check price
SCHMETZ Leather Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$7.31Cutting-point leather needles for real leather and suede on a domestic machine.
Check price
Janome HD3000 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine with Hard Case
$529.00A heavy-duty mechanical machine that handles thick layers where heavy needles are needed.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What are hemstitch (wing) needles used for?
Hemstitch (Wing) needles have a flared wings beside the blade that open holes and are best for heirloom hemstitching, loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste. Size band only per Schmetz. Choose the needle type by fabric first, then the size by fabric weight and thread thickness.
What sizes do hemstitch (wing) needles come in?
Schmetz lists hemstitch (wing) needles in 100/16, 120/19. Use the smaller sizes for lighter fabrics and finer thread, and the larger sizes for heavier fabrics and thicker thread.
When should you not use hemstitch (wing) needles?
Avoid hemstitch (wing) needles for knits, synthetics that close the holes. Using the wrong point can cause skipped stitches, runs in knits or damage to the fabric, so match the needle to the fabric before you start.
What color band are hemstitch (wing) needles?
Schmetz does not use a separate type band for hemstitch (wing) needles, so read the package label. Keep needles in their case once opened so you always know the type and size.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with each new project, and right away after hitting a pin. Signs of a dull or bent needle include skipped stitches, a popping sound, snags and puckered seams.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.