Hemstitch (Wing) Sewing Machine Needles: What They Are For and Which Size to Use
Hemstitch needles have flared wings beside the blade that open holes, which suits heirloom hemstitching, loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste. Avoid them on knits and synthetics that close the holes. Schmetz lists 2 sizes, 100/16 and 120/19. Change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing.
Hemstitch needles are sewing machine needles with flared wings beside the blade that open holes, made for heirloom hemstitching. Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap. The sewing machine needle size chart shows how the sizes on the package line up with fabrics.
| Point | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes |
|---|---|
| Best for | Heirloom hemstitching, Loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste |
| Avoid for | Knits, Synthetics that close the holes |
| Sizes | 100/16, 120/19 |
| Schmetz color band | None |
| Notes | Size band only per Schmetz. |
The table above sums the type up: flared wings beside the blade that open holes made for heirloom hemstitching, in 2 sizes. Thread and needle are chosen together, so this size runs best with 30 wt thread or 50 wt.
Which size hemstitch (wing) needle should you use?
Hemstitch (Wing) needles come in 2 sizes, from 100/16 for the lightest fabrics up to 120/19; the table below pairs each size with its fabrics and thread.
How do needle types compare?
All 14 household needle types sit in the table below, with Hemstitch highlighted. The closest alternative is the universal needle, which is the one to reach for when this point is not right for the fabric.
| Type | Point | Color band |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | None |
When in doubt, test
Sew a few inches on a scrap of the same fabric, folded to the same thickness. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type; shredded thread usually means the eye is too small.
Needles are the cheapest fix in sewing: a pack of 5 costs less than a yard of fabric and lasts 6 to 8 hours of stitching each. Buy them by fabric rather than in bulk in one size, and when the needle is right but the seam still fights you, the machine is the next variable, which is what our best sewing machines for clothes roundup digs into.
Needles and machines
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
Under $25Titanium-coated Schmetz jeans needles in 100/16 for denim, canvas and thick layers.
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SCHMETZ Leather Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
Under $25Cutting-point leather needles for real leather and suede on a domestic machine.
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Janome HD3000 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine with Hard Case
Under $1,000A heavy-duty mechanical machine that handles thick layers where heavy needles are needed.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What are hemstitch (wing) needles used for?
Hemstitch (Wing) needles have a flared wings beside the blade that open holes and are best for heirloom hemstitching, loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste. Size band only per Schmetz. Choose the needle type by fabric first, then the size by fabric weight and thread thickness.
What sizes do hemstitch (wing) needles come in?
Schmetz lists hemstitch (wing) needles in 100/16, 120/19. Use the smaller sizes for lighter fabrics and finer thread, and the larger sizes for heavier fabrics and thicker thread.
When should you not use hemstitch (wing) needles?
Avoid hemstitch (wing) needles for knits, synthetics that close the holes. Using the wrong point can cause skipped stitches, runs in knits or damage to the fabric, so match the needle to the fabric before you start.
What color band are hemstitch (wing) needles?
Schmetz does not use a separate type band for hemstitch (wing) needles, so read the package label. Keep needles in their case once opened so you always know the type and size.
Why is my sewing machine skipping stitches?
Skipped stitches almost always mean the wrong needle or a worn one. A universal point can skip on knits where a ball point would not, and a bent or dull needle skips long before it looks damaged, so change it every 6 to 8 hours of sewing. Rethread top and bobbin with the presser foot up, and check the needle is pushed all the way up and facing the right way, as the sewing machine maintenance guide sets out.
What size sewing machine needle should I use for quilting cotton?
Use an 80/12 for piecing quilting cotton with 50 wt thread, and step up to a 90/14 once you are quilting through top, batting and backing. A sharp point, microtex or quilting, keeps the seam accurate on tightly woven cotton. The 80/12 needle page in this section covers the fabrics and threads it handles: an 80/12 needle.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with each new project, and right away after hitting a pin. Signs of a dull or bent needle include skipped stitches, a popping sound, snags and puckered seams.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
